After more than 20 years of skateboarding, the magic of bolting a board together hasn't changed. Here's how to put the right setup together — and at the end, how to actually build it.

What you need:

1. The deck

First up is the deck. The only real question: where do you skate most, what do you want to skate, and how.

Standard boards — so no longboards or cruisers — all run around 80 cm these days. There's barely any variation, and the wheelbase, the distance between the truck holes, doesn't differ much either. So width is what matters:

• under 8 inch: narrow
• under 8.5 inch: standard
• over 8.5 inch: wide
• over 10 inch: mega ramp board

Go narrow if you're in the park on good ground doing a lot of flip tricks. Small feet help.

A standard board suits normal feet (US 8.5 to US 12) and skating both park and street — the kind of skate day you can't really plan ahead.

Go wide with really big feet, or if you keep hitting fat rails with a cobblestone run-up and a checker plate run-out. Or you're a pool shark after fat grinds and big airs.

Mega ramp boards are for taking Jake Brown slams.

>> Find decks here.

2. Hardware (bolts)

Not much to think about with bolts, but you need them to get the trucks onto the board. Phillips or Allen is down to taste. Allen usually lasts longer, because a Phillips head wears out over time and gets harder to turn. For trucks straight onto the board, 7/8" is enough. If you're running shock or riser pads underneath, go 1".

>> Find hardware here.

3. Trucks

Every truck brand turns differently, which is why a lot of people stick with one — you don't get used to a new feel that quickly. There are people who move their old bushings into new trucks so nothing changes. Whichever brand you go for: the width has to match the width of your deck.

>> Trucks are here.

4. Wheels

Same as with the deck: think about what you ride most. Small wheels are better for flips, big ones lock in better on a curb or on coping. The bigger the wheel, the smoother the roll and the less chatter on rough ground. In exchange it all gets a bit sluggish, which costs you some flip.

If you slide a lot, so plenty of powerslides, go for the slightly pricier STF or Formula Four from Bones or Spitfire — they're less prone to flat spots, those worn patches on the wheel. For street we basically only ride 99A; softer than that and sliding gets too hard. Soft wheels are a cruiser topic.

>> Find wheels here.

5. Bearings

Bearings are where opinions split and arguments start. As a rule you'll be fine with standard ABEC 5. If you're into manuals and want the same bearings to outlast several sets of wheels, go ABEC 7 or higher. If you're after the ultimate roll-forever, take Bones Ceramics.

>> Find bearings here.

6. Skate tool

To put it all together properly, get yourself a tool. Saves your nerves and the digging around in your dad's toolbox.

>> Find tools here.

7. Griptape

Griptape is the rough surface that goes on top of the deck. With us it's included with every board.

If you want us to put it on for you, send a mail to shop@soohotrightnow.com right after your order. Keep in mind that returns or exchanges on the board are off the table once it's gripped.

8. Skate shoes

The choice in skate shoes is huge too. We only stock shoes from companies that actually work. We've skated almost all of them ourselves, or our team riders have, so we can tell you plenty — just ask.

Broadly, a skate shoe wants a flat sole so you stand properly on the board; enough grip so you don't slip off; an upper that lasts but still lets you feel the board; and laces that don't blow out on the first ollie.

>> Have a look at shoes here.

Building the board

1. Grip it: peel the backing off, line the griptape up centred on the deck and press it down at the nose or tail. Work outwards from there and keep the air bubbles out, same as with a sticker. Then score the edge all the way round with a file or a screwdriver and trim the overhang with a box cutter.
2. Mount the trucks: punch through all eight holes and push the bolts down from the top, the grip side. Fit the trucks onto them — hangers facing out, kingpins facing in.
3. Press in the bearings: eight of them, one from each side per wheel.
4. Wheels on: take the nuts off the axles, put a wheel on each of the four, and run the nuts back on. The tool makes this a lot easier.